Author: Steven Vance

Dennis McClendon’s notes for traveling in Japan

Dennis gave me these Japan (mostly Tokyo) travel tips back in 2017, right before I visited there for the first time. Dennis passed away on August 8,2024.

Here’s Japan notes you can forward:

Get a Suica card. First stop at the airport should be the ATM (I like 7-Eleven’s Seven Bank).  Then in the basement (or mezzanine at Haneda), you can put ¥3000 to ¥5000 on a Suica or Pasmo stored-value card.  This will let you hop onto almost any form of bus or train, and can also be used in convenience stores, coffee shops, etc., and for storage lockers and some vending machines.  No more figuring out which coin is which.

Konbini.  Convenience stores—7-Eleven, FamilyMart, Lawson’s, and Sunkyu—are everywhere.  Besides the usual pop and candy, they sell a remarkable array of tasty hot food.  Outside city centers, they often have small seating areas and even toilets.  If your vision of 7-Eleven food is hot dogs on a roller, think again.  They have warming cases of delicious fried or grilled chicken (yakitori) or pork nuggets on a stick, meat dumplings, fried prawns, etc.  Pick up some rice cake snacks in the chip aisle and a beer or soda from the cooler, then point to a couple of meat-on-a-sticks and you have a very tasty lunch.  Chilly day? Buy your instant ramen and take it to the hot water dispenser.  Just make sure there’s cafe seating in the store or a park nearby.  Japanese people never eat on the street. 

Phone and WI-Fi.  You’ll find place selling SIM cards at the airports and in big shopping districts. To compare various rental options, visit the JapanTravel subreddit’s wiki about pocket wifi.

If you don’t need to be connected at all times, consider just connecting on Wi-Fi at your hotel and other places.  Some places that promise free Wi-Fi only offer it to Japanese phone numbers, or will be texting you a code only after you sign up on a Japanese web page.  If you don’t have service to begin with, that’s useless.  Lawson convenience stores, which are everywhere in Japan, have a login page in English and the Wi-Fi usually works, even when standing outside on the sidewalk. 

Maps.  Japan considers map data a national security issue, and doesn’t allow them to be stored offline—so unless you have a Japanese SIM card, you won’t be able to see Google, Apple, or Here maps on your phone.  A good alternative is the Maps.me app [do not use Maps.me anymore because it was purchased since then and has devolved; use Organic Maps instead, which is a clone], which uses OpenStreetMap data.  Create a place marker when you first arrive at your hotel.  Because most Japanese streets are unnamed, it can be useful for your phone to literally point the way back to your hotel.  A map of subway and JR lines, with stations shown in Roman characters, is a very handy thing to keep in your pocket.  There’s a JR travel center at Shinjuku Station (and Tokyo Station) with plenty of options.

Department store food halls.  Big department stores flank or top most of Japan’s big train stations (often owned by the railway company).  In the basement, usually, is an incredible variety of food counters selling delicious ready-to-eat food of all kind.  Here you’ll find a much wider variety of grilled or fried meats, sushi, bento boxes, and croissants and similar pastries that rival anything in Paris.  The bakery areas often have savory pastries like curry puffs or ham croissants that are great for eating on (long-distance intercity) trains.  See something odd and intriguing, like dried fish or seaweed chips?  Have a 100-gram sample.  But, again, where to eat your goodies?  Many department stores will have a “park” on the roof, with playground equipment, and often, picnic tables.

Supermarkets.  Even big supermarkets often have good ready-to-eat food.  The market is single people taking supper home, but after a tiring day you may find it convenient to just take something to the store’s cafe seating area, or back to your hotel room.  If you visit Himeji Castle, or similar areas where lots of locals picnic, the nearby supermarkets will have lots of options to cater to this market.

100-yen shops.  Japan is not an inexpensive place, and bargains are not easy to find.  A big exception are the three chains of 100-yen shops: Daiso, Seria, and Can*Do.  Daiso is now known around the world for the useful little housewares and gadgets, and even gloves and belts—all for ¥100!  Seria is much more fashion-conscious, with design central to many of the things they sell. The largest Daiso (66,000 sq. ft.!) is near Keisei Funabashi station in Chiba. More convenient, with lots of stuff perfect for gifts and souvenirs, is the one at DiverCity.  Seria stores are a little harder to find, often on upper floors of shopping centers, or even within other stores.  Can*Do has even fewer locations, but some unique merchandise.

Stationery stores.  If you like art supply stores, they’re still big in Japan.  I never miss visiting the eight floors of Sekaido, just 1000 feet due east of Shinjuku Station.  In central Tokyo (Ginza), there’s the more upscale G. Itoya.  Stationery and other handcrafts are the focus of Tokyu Hands stores, with many locations throughout Japan.  These are also great sources for souvenirs that the recipients can use everyday.  

Souvenirs.  You’ll also find cool souvenirs—including pencils shaped like subway trains—at the Tokyo Subway merchandise shop in the Ikebukuro Station shopping concourse.  The Ekitetsu Pop Shop in DiverCity Tokyo (Odaiba) sells all kinds of wonderful train-themed toys—including chopsticks shaped like shinkansen.  Though we have Uniqlo stores in the US, some of the Tokyo locations are huge.  For manga and anime-themed stuff, Akihabara is the district.  Japan’s discount store is Don Quijote: snack foods, kitchen stuff, toys, funny socks, costumes, underwear with hilarious English labels. 

For the railfan.  Japan is heaven for the rail transport buff.  The subway isn’t especially notable compared to others around the world, unless you’re interested in operational details, like through-running of suburban trains.  Much more interesting is riding the above-ground JR lines, including the Yamanote Line that encircles Tokyo, and the Shuo line that cuts through the middle.  There’s a new trainwatcher’s plaza (with a statue of a Suica penguin) at the south end of Shinjuku Station.

Coastline circle trip.  For an afternoon excursion, you may enjoy a circle trip: a limited or express JR train southwest via Yokohama to Ofuna.  There, transfer to the Shonan monorail (no Suica accepted), riding above the suburban streets—and through hills—to Enoshima. There switch to the historic Enoshima Electric Railway running along the coastline, watching the surf crash on the beach or stopping at the Giant Buddha, a short walk uphill from Hase Station, and continuing east to Kamakura.  There you can catch JR back to Tokyo.  

I took almost exactly that Coastline circle trip Dennis recommended. My photos of the Shonan monorail, Enoshima Electric Railway, and the coastline are below.

Many of Chicago’s bungalows were built with basement ADUs

It’s easy to check: is there a ground-level door on the side gangway, or at the rear?

  • Walk up and down the streets of Vittum Park and Archer Heights and you’ll see dozens of houses with gangway doors.
  • Over in Portage Park a bungalow in the 45th Ward has a door at the front corner, a couple of steps down.

Back in 2018 I wrote about whether “lock off apartments” like these would be allowed by the Chicago zoning code. This was before I realized that so many bungalows have these; they’re so inconspicuous that they’re easy to miss.

Did you know that the city has 14 bungalow districts on the National Register of Historic Places? All but one would be severely affected by the proposed ADU expansion ordinance that would require homeowners to obtain a special use from the Zoning Board of Appeals in order to permit an existing ADU so someone can legally continue living in a separate household, or to permit the build out of a new ADU. That’s because most – if not all, but I didn’t check each one – of the land is zoned RS-1 and RS-2.

Google Street View images show six selected bungalows in Archer Heights that have side doors to basements. The status of each (whether they are separate households or shared with the household on the first floor) is unknown. Legally, however, most homeowners would not be able to rent out a basement unit because of zoning code restrictions here that the ADU ordinance could change. Thank you to Danny Villalobos for finding these; Danny is a fellow member of Urban Environmentalists Illinois, which has this petition gathering support for expanding the ADU ordinance citywide.

Only the homeowners in the Falconer Bungalow Historic District in Belmont Cragin would be exempt from that requirement in the proposed ADU expansion ordinance because none of the bungalows are zoned RS-1 or RS-2.

In a recent blog post I quantified how many small-scale residential properties would be affected by the RS-1/2 “carve out”. In this post I’m discussing those same kinds of properties but in the 13 bungalow historic districts that would be affected.

A list of 13 of the 14 historic bungalow districts in Chicago and the number of small-scale residential properties that are in RS-1 and RS-2 zoning districts that would have to obtain a special use from the Zoning Board of Appeals in order to have an ADU if the current version of the proposed ADU expansion ordinance would be adopted.

The sizable impact of requiring Chicago homeowners to get special use approval to build an ADU

Show your support for a version of the proposed ordinance that enables equal access to ADUs in all residential zoning districts and does not have the carve out explained below by emailing your alderperson and asking that they support ADU expansion into every residential zoning district without special use approval (reference ordinance SO2024-0008918, and then sign this Urban Environmentalists Illinois petition). I spoke about this issue with Mike Stephen on Outside The Loop radio on July 27, 2024 (skip to 6 minutes).

It’s possible that the Chicago City Council votes to approve an ADU expansion ordinance that would require about 38 percent of small-scale residential property owners, specifically in RS-1 and RS-2 zoning districts, to obtain a special use from the Zoning Board of Appeals to build an ADU. Special use approval is intended for limited and certain businesses and building types that can have an adverse impact and may require mitigations that are reviewed and approved by the ZBA.

ADUs have not been demonstrated to have adverse impacts and this potential future requirement would impose burdens on a scale above and beyond anything else the Chicago zoning code imposes. A special use is described in the city’s code as having “widely varying land use and operational characteristics [and] require case-by-case review in order to determine whether they will be compatible with surrounding uses and development patterns. Case-by-case review is intended to ensure consideration of the special use’s anticipated land use, site design and operational impacts.”

Yet an ADU is a residential use; its operational characteristics could not be incompatible with other residential uses. This requirement would be extremely unusual and especially burdensome. There is only one other special use approval that a residential property owner would have to seek, which is to allow housing on the ground floor in B1, B3, C1, and C2 zoning districts.

Applying for a special use for a small home presents a major obligation to the property owner, and requires them to perform the following:

  • Submitting a full building permit application with plans and obtaining a “certificate of zoning denial” before being able to start this process.
  • Paying a $1,000 application fee to the City of Chicago.
  • Hiring an expert witness to write a report and provide testimony at the ZBA hearing.
  • Preparing the finding of fact, a report which (a) describes how the ADU complies with all applicable standards of the Chicago Zoning Ordinance, (b) says that the ADU is in the interest of the public convenience and will not have a significant adverse impact on the general welfare of the neighborhood, (c) explains that the ADU is compatible with the character of the surrounding area in terms of site planning and building scale and project design, (d) states that the ADU is compatible with the character of the surrounding area in terms of operating characteristics, such as hours of operation, outdoor lighting, noise and traffic generation, and (e) outlines that the ADU is designed to promote pedestrian safety and comfort.
  • Preparing the application (which is extensive).
  • Complying with onerous legal notification requirements including determining property owners of record within 250 feet of the subject property, paying for and posting public notice signs and ensuring they remain posted until the public hearing, and mailing notice letters to surrounding property owners within the 250 feet notice radius.
  • Presenting the project to the Zoning Board of Appeals at an undeterminable time during an 8-12 hour meeting in the middle of a Friday, possibly facing one’s neighbors who are present objecting to the project.

Not to mention, this will gum up staff time and expertise.

Scale of impact

I analyzed the number of small-scale residential-only properties in Chicago that would and would not be subject to the special use approval requirement in RS-1 and RS-2 zoning districts if that version were to pass.

The map below shows where the proposed ADU expansion would set a different standard for homeowners in RS-1 and RS-2 zoning districts than for homeowners in all other zoning districts. It covers large parts of 40 percent of the city’s 77 community areas (read more about my thoughts on this in my letter to the Chicago Sun-Times editor).

The table below shows the results of my analysis: the owners of nearly 171,000 small-scale residential properties in RS-1/2 zoning districts would be required to undergo a costly and difficult process that would likely result in burdens so great that very few families would actually be able to take advantage of having an ADU.

About the analysis

“Small-scale residential” comprises Cook County property classifications that represent detached houses, townhouses and townhouses, two-to-six flats, courtyard buildings, and small multifamily buildings, up to 99,999 s.f. with or without commercial space up to 35 percent of the rentable square feet.

The full list of property classifications:

  • 2-02
  • 2-03
  • 2-04
  • 2-05
  • 2-06
  • 2-07
  • 2-08
  • 2-09
  • 2-10
  • 2-11
  • 2-12
  • 2-13
  • 2-25
  • 2-34
  • 2-78
  • 2-95
  • 3-13
  • 3-14
  • 3-15
  • 3-18
  • 3-91

Comment to zoning committee about the proactive Western Ave upzoning

July 16, 2024. The text here roughly matches what I said to the Chicago City Council’s committee on zoning, landmarks, and building standards.

My name is Steven Vance, and I’m a member of Urban Environmentalists Illinois, a membership-based advocacy group that supports more housing – especially affordable housing, housing near transit, and fossil fuel-free – to help deal with housing shortages and rising housing prices.

There are two ordinances for the zoning committee’s consideration today that are the start of a new wave of land use policy to increase development where it’s needed, along Western Avenue. After the completion of the Western Avenue Corridor Study two years ago, Alderpersons Hadden, Martin, and Vasquez are taking the necessary next step by codifying some of the study’s recommendations into zoning map updates. 

The study recommended that higher-density mixed-use developments be allowed and encouraged along Western Avenue, to fill in the many vacant properties and allow the corridor to develop from one primarily serving people using cars to one serving people who use all kinds of transportation modes. And in the future, to provide the density that is supportive and takes advantage of a bus rapid transit network. 

The zoning map changes mean that nearly all of Western Avenue from from Addison Street to Howard Street will have B3-3 zoning, allowing mixed use and residential buildings up to 4 and 5 stories tall, with 20-40 homes each, in a way that property owners and developers won’t need to get individual approval for each one. Developments still have to comply with the ARO. 

When all alders task themselves with approving each and every proposed development, new housing is often delayed, raising the cost of development and denying people access new affordable and accessible housing. And, as the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development found, segregation is perpetuated.

The proactive Western Ave upzoning is a form of housing abundance, however, since it can speed up development of new housing in neighborhoods where it’s most in demand and where there’s existing transit infrastructure and amenities. 

A secondary benefit of proactive upzoning is how it attracts new development in Chicago, because of the ease of development. New development is one of the city’s best strategies to deal with funding pensions, because new development means there are new and more taxpayers. New development eases property tax pressure on existing taxpayers. 

Please pass the two Western Ave upzoning ordinances today. I also look forward to seeing and supporting proactive upzoning ordinances, including two that have been proposed in the 35th Ward, at your next meeting. 

Ride in Chicago with “Bike Mayor” John Bauters to help elect him to higher office

I’m co-hosting a fundraiser for John Bauters when he visits Chicago in two weeks on Monday, July 22. You can donate now or keep reading to learn why it’s important to support candidates like John.

John is formerly the mayor of Emeryville, California, and is running for Alameda County Supervisor in a runoff election on November 5, 2024. After finding out that he was coming to Chicago (for a work conference), I talked to some other Chicagoans and quickly put together an idea for a “meet and greet” event.

I was really just excited that I could meet John because I wasn’t able to meet him when he was here in August 2022 and rode in the monthly Critical Mass bike ride. John is well known online as “America’s Bike Mayor” because of how he rides around Emeryville, a city of 13,000 people, posting photos and videos of new sustainable transportation infrastructure and housing in the city, sometimes with his dog, Reyna. 

Because of the successes in reducing traffic crashes there and increasing the number of affordable homes and housing for the homeless that John has shepherded as a council member and as mayor, John is known around the United States as a progressive leader. 

On Monday, July 22, I’ll be co-hosting a fundraiser for John in Chicago, alongside Nate Hutcheson, Ben Wolfenstein, Michelle Stenzel, Tim Shambrook, and Brendan Kevenides (an attorney with FK Law Illinois). We’ll start the bike ride in Lincoln Square, ride through the 40th and 47th Wards making a couple stops along the way to showcase good and bad urbanism, and end the ride on the lakefront for a community discussion followed by a happy hour. 

We’re asking people to donate to John’s campaign (for Alameda County Supervisor, where he’s in a runoff) to get the details for the ride. We’re also looking for additional people to join the host committee (contact me if you’re interested). You can donate as little as $20 to join this ride and you’re adding your voice to a call for more active transportation leadership nationally.

So here’s the question I think a lot of people are wondering: why should Chicagoans donate to someone running for office in another state?

Michelle Stenzel, founder of Bike Walk Lincoln Park, said, “It’s important for city planners to have examples from the United States of successful balanced street designs. Former Emeryville Mayor John Bauters was an agent for making the roads less car-centric. I’m supporting John in running for a new position that will allow him to broaden his influence even further, which will benefit everyone who cares about livable streets.”

Brendan Kevenides, an attorney who represents many injured cyclists in Chicago, said, “FK Law is proud to support John Bauters because he’s the kind of bicycle advocate, the sort of pragmatic leader that cities and towns throughout the United States need more of. He puts in the work necessary to bring about change in transportation policy that saves lives and improves living.”

Molly Fleck, a bicycle and ADU advocate, said, “John’s work in Emeryville on affordable housing and people-oriented transportation serves as a model of what’s possible for cities that want to do things differently. I am donating because John’s leadership resonates far beyond Alameda County.”

Daniel Comeaux, a transportation planner, said, “John is an inspiring leader who is at the forefront of the national movement to build cities for people and not just cars. I’m donating because I am excited to see that work continue, as a model for communities nationwide.”

About John

John’s work has been trendsetting from the Bay Area. Under his leadership, Emeryville has been transformed as a community. Examples of sustainable urban policies they’ve led on:

  • One of the first cities to eliminate parking minimums and reduce maximums.
  • Removing on-street parking in favor of separated, protected bike lanes and dedicated transit-only lanes.
  • Developed “Sustainable Streetscapes” program that requires implementation of the bike/ped plan when streets are repaved.
  • Designated a “Pro-Housing City” by Governor Newsom for the abundance and affordability of housing the city is producing

John also championed Alameda County’s 400-mile Countywide Bikeways Plan and also initiated the County Transportation Commission’s Race & Equity Action Plan. (Note that Alameda County covers most of the East Bay communities, including Oakland, Berkeley, and Emeryville.) In 2022, the San Francisco Bay Chapter of the Sierra Club gave John their inaugural Visionary Award for his work to build safe, sustainable, and environmentally-forward communities through climate action and leadership.

Eric Rogers, a prolific photographer who bikes for transportation and fun and took one of the photos above, said, “Mayor Bauters has been an inspirational leader in encouraging cities to adopt people-centric mobility policies that make us all healthier and safer. We need to give him a bigger platform to bring these ideas to more people. Plus, he’s a friendly guy with deep roots in Chicago and the Midwest, and we have to support our own!”

John is an accessible politician and holds “mobile office hours” talking to constituents on walks and bike rides. He’ll spend some time speaking to us about safe streets advocacy after the ride but would also welcome a chance to talk about supporting broader causes, helping elect women and urbanists, and protecting vulnerable community members. Please chip in and come join us for a solidarity ride with an elected official who is modeling what we want to see here in Chicago.